VERSION 2.1
MARKS & SPENCER
What is the origin of the controlled chemical?
JANUARY 2014
Maximum limit on Chemical What M&S products are most likely to be affected? finished product Flame retardants Depends on exact Legal restrictions 5ppm for penta-, Legal restrictions for Deliberate chemistry - Toxic, for penta and octa hexa- and octa - Consent Required Solvent extraction + penta and octa BDE of 5 ppm Cotton application on not biodegradable BDE of 0.1% (EC brominated 0.1% (EC Regulation GC-MS or LC-MS fabrics and suspected Regulation biphenyl ethers, Not permitted in 552/2009) health risks 552/2009) PCB’s and PCT’s Childrenswear Flame retardant finishes should only be applied where there is a legislative need with written consent from M&S. Penta, Hexa and Octa –brominated types must not be Flame retardant deliberately applied and must not be present above 5 ppm. Suppliers using deca brominated types should follow VECAP best practice - notes http://www.bsef.com/product_stew/vecap/ Why is it banned or restricted? Retail legal status Supply base legal status ‘Practical’ Limit of Detection Test method (preferred method) Phthalates (as softener for eg PVC) PVC mock leather and plastisol prints 1000 ppm Suspected sex 6 phthalates now illegal in DBP, DEHP,BBP, combined total of Used to soften rigid change chemicals children’s clothing and DINP,DIDP,DNOP the 6 legislated PVC containing 100 ppm PVC /suspected toys in Europe Directive are banned in phthalates Not permitted in carcinogen 2005/84/EC REACH directive 500 ppm maximum Children’s clothing above set limits for each phthalate It is essential that all suppliers who are using PVC based products familiarise themselves with, and comply with the current M&S PVC policy. DEHP, DBP and BBP are Phthalate and SVHCs, and are banned above 1000ppm in all childcare articles and toys. DINP, DIDP and DNOP are banned above 1000ppm in articles that are intended for children under 36 months and can be mouthed. Another phthalate has been notified on the REACH SVHC list – Diisobutyl phthalate (cas 84-69-5) is an SVHC but not on toy legislation, but PVC notes should be avoided Most commonly Known irritant to Formaldehyde Textiles: BS EN ISO Controls on found in resinated skin and mucous Resinated Free 75ppm 14184:2011 Parts 1 Not permitted in workplace Less than 20 products (and in membranes No Legal restriction Cotton and Released 300ppm and 2. Children’s lower levels in fixing Reclassified as airborne ppm Viscose Baby wear 20ppm Leather: EN ISO TS underwear or any agents for cotton carcinogen by quantities 17226 HPLC baby wear and nylon) WHO Pesticides and Pesticides / Insecticides listed in Insecticides Wool (and Total 0.5ppm for Selected chemicals are Appendix 4. Strict controls on Solvent extraction + GCMS lower levels on No deliberate use pH of Textiles and Leather
cotton) Used to protect sheep and cotton crops from parasite infestation. Toxic banned under POP convention No Legal restriction effluent No Legal restriction wool Total 0.05ppm for cotton Childrenswear and Acidity or alkalinity Extreme values All fibre types. arising from the final can cause skin Leather irritation process
direct skin contact pH 4.0 – 7.5 No direct skin contact pH 4.0 – 8.5 0.05 ppm - Analytical – HPLC or
GCMS Textiles: ISO 3071 (2005). Leather: EN ISO 4045 (2008)
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VERSION 2.1
MARKS & SPENCER
What is the origin of the controlled chemical?
JANUARY 2014
Maximum limit on finished product Chemical Metals in Textiles Technical Notes Cadmium Nickel Antimony Lead Copper Chromium Other Heavy Metals Short Chained Chlorinated Paraffins (SCCP) No deliberate use Chlorine based bleach Sodium Chlorite is not permitted Chlorine Technical notes
What M&S products are most likely to be affected? Why is it banned or restricted? Retail legal status Supply base legal status ‘Practical’ Limit of Detection Test method (preferred method) The figures contained in this document refer to M&S acceptable limits of heavy metals on finished textiles. There is specific legislation relating to specific metals in all end uses (e.g. Cadmium Directive) and also legislation for metals in toys (EN71). Please note that acceptable limits in EN71 are significantly higher than for M&S textiles - the standards in this ECP document apply to M&S textile based toys. Metal is used as an integral part of some dye chromophores to impart technical performance. Where metal-free dyes will meet M&S performance requirements these should be used as the preferred option. In addition to these textile standards, M&S have specific policies and standards relating to metal in componentry (see Nickel Policy and Childrenswear Safety Manual) Various Various Various Various Pigments, Dyes, Fibres, Alloys Green and turquoise dyes Fibres, flame retardants Pigments / water pipes Toxic Allergenic Toxic Toxic EN 71 + Cadmium directive EN 71 + see nickel policy Strict controls on effluent Strict controls on 0.1 ppm Adults 4 ppm Infants 1ppm 30 ppm Adults 1 ppm Infants 0.2ppm Adults: 50ppm Infants: 25ppm Adults: 2 ppm Infants: 1 ppm 1ppm 100ppm Use chlorine-free bleach where practicable 0.03 ppm 1 ppm 30 ppm 0.3 ppm 0.3 ppm 0.3 ppm 0.3 ppm 100 ppm N/A there is a nickel directive EN 71 EN 71 effluent Strict controls on ISO 105 E04 (2009) acid. ICP-MS Total BSEN 1122 ISO 105 E04 (2009) acid. ICP-MS ISO 105 E04 (2009) acid. ICP-MS ISO 105 E04 (2009) acid. ICP-MS ISO 105 E04 (2009) acid. ICP-MS ISO 105 E04 (2009) acid. ICP-MS ISO 105 E04 (2009) acid. ICP-MS effluent Strict controls on effluent Strict controls on Various Various - - Various Used in flame retardants, plasticisers, adhesives. Fat liquoring agent in leather processing. Deliberate application Various Leather, Natural and Coated Cotton Toxic Toxic Toxic None - EN 71 Europe – Regulation 552/2009 REACH Annex XV11 No. 42 No Legal restriction effluent Strict controls on effluent Strict controls on Toxic to aquatic organisms Toxic in high concentrations. Concerns over AOX formation in effluent effluent REACH Annex XV11 No. 42 Restriction on preparations containing >1.0% No Legal restriction. May form AOX in effluent, and these are controlled. Solvent extraction + GCMS - The use of alternative bleaching systems based on, eg hydrogen peroxide are recommended. The use of sodium chlorite in particular is prohibited by M&S. See Appendix 8 for further notes on best practice processing.
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What M&S products are most likely to be affected? Footwear outsoles, screen prints MARKS & SPENCER JANUARY 2014
Chemical Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons
Retail legal status Draft Commission Used to soften rigid Regulation EU Toxic rubber and plastic amending Annex XVII to materials. Some PAHs are Regulation Can be found in print carcinogens (EC) No 1907/2006. pastes. No. 50 What is the origin of the controlled chemical? Why is it banned or restricted? Supply base legal status Strict controls on Maximum limit on finished product Benzo(a)pyrene 1ppm Combined total of ‘Practical’ limit of detection 0.1ppm Test method (preferred method) Solvent extraction, determination with effluent and air emissions all other PAHs 10ppm
GC-MS
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VERSION 2.1 MARKS & SPENCER JANUARY 2014
染料和化学品选择 避免不符点
排除有些污染物被带入原料以外，大多数的化学安全问题和环境问题是由于在产品制造中人为的使用染料和化学品造成的。
染坊、印刷厂、精加工厂、清洗坊、制革厂，必须小心地选择那些对纺织工人、环境以及玛莎顾客没有危害的产品。
早期，我们的化学品政策规定：推荐工厂使用ETAD，来确保他们选择的化学品符合我们的政策。今天我们不再要求拥有该组织会员资格才能给我们提供染料、化工品、或打印油墨，但我们倾向于来自于ETAD成员所使用的产品。
任何染料、化工品、印刷化学品供应商必须完全履行玛莎RSL要求和REACH 相关的要求。玛莎不会认可使用供货商提供的来自第三方组织成员或所列的产品
符合要求的染料和化学品：从以下清单选出来的产品如果申请得当，不会导致与RSL不相符合。
??Dystar - owned by Kiri Chemicals (India) from 2010 - dyes and pigment formulations in brochure
format or at www.dystar.com.
Dystar 从2010年开始由印度Kiri化学所拥有，在其手册上或网址上的染料和颜料配方 ??Huntsman Textile Effects - www.huntsman.com ??Archroma dyes and chemicals at www.archroma.com. ??CHT/Bezema Chemicals at www.cht-group.com.
??Magna print and speciality chemicals at www.magnacolours.com ??BASF chemicals at www.basf.com ??Rudolf chemicals at www.rudolf.de
以下的附件1,2,3着重强调了禁止在玛莎产品中使用的染料。这些化学品不允许在玛莎制品中使用。如果一旦发现有产品违背了RSL标准，那么服装生产商将面临罚款，该罚款有可能摊派给润湿加工商。
儿童衣服 裁片印花 见附件7
以下公司的裁片印花化学品符合我们对化学品的总体要求，也符合更加严厉的儿童衣服无PVC、无令苯二甲酸盐的标准。我们强烈推荐使用这些公司利用新技术生产的产品来降低不符合RSL标准的风险。
??Magna ??Print Kimya ??Zydex ??CHT
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